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<  OZ Toppies  ~  Power Supply Repair 5x00 Series.

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kermit
Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 7:12 am Reply with quote
Frequent contributor Joined: 01 Jun 2005 Posts: 972 Location: Brisbane, Australia
Excellent piece of documentation with lots of pictures I found linked in another thread. This also applies to the Australian 5000.
http://www.smithdom.force9.co.uk/toppy/
Quote:

Topfield TF5800PVR Power Supply Repair

This page provides an account with photographs of my repair to the power supply on my Topfield TF5800PVR, known to owners as a 'Toppy'. This was my first attempt at anything like this, and so I recorded the steps in order to give encouragement to anyone else who might be considering doing the same thing.

Background

The Topfield TF5800PVR is a hard-drive video recorder with twin Freeview tuners, one of a product category know as a Personal Video Recorder (PVR). The Toppy is unique among PVRs in that it supports software extensions known as Topfield Application Programs (TAPs). It may be this extensibility that attracts a particular type of owner. Certainly the user community does seem to be richly populated with extremely helpful and competent people more than willing to exchange ideas and help each other out.

There is a web site dedicated to all things Toppy where owners gather to exchange hints and tips. It was through the forums on this web site that I received the encouragement to have a go at repairing my own Toppy when it developed a problem.

I received advice from several people, but in particular I am indebted to Mike Powell (MikeyP on the forums) for providing parts and offering detailed advice.

The Symptoms

After nearly four years of trouble-free ownership my Toppy started to be reluctant to bring up certain menus related to viewing recorded programs, and related to recording programs. Intermittent at first, these problems became more persistent until I was no longer able to access anything on the hard drive.

I had a spare 40Gb hard drive to hand so I swapped out the original 160Gb drive and installed the 40Gb drive. This fixed the symptoms, but while I was inside the box I measured the voltages at the molex connector for the hard drive, on the advice of folks on the Toppy forums. The molex has a 12v and a 5v connector. On my Toppy these were registering 14.98v and 4.57v respectively - not good.

The advice on the forum indicated a relatively common failing with six of the capacitors on the Toppy power supply. Not having ever repaired electronics of this sort I was a little nervous about attempting a repair. MikeyP offered to replace the capacitors for me if I sent him the power supply board, but emboldened by reports of successful repairs of done by others with a similar lack of experience I decided to have a go. MikeyP sent me six capacitors and some useful tips on soldering technique. I invested in a new soldering iron and was ready to go.

The job took me about two hours in all, and has succeeded in moving the voltages more in line with specification. The original hard drive still doesn't work in the Toppy, but I am able to read the recordings from it in my PC using a utility linked to from the Toppy web site. I will attempt to reformat this drive and try again once I have retrieved the recordings I want. If that works, great. If not then a new hard drive at about 35 for 400Gb doesn't seem like much to pay to extend the life of my Toppy.

The Repair

Before starting


I disconnected the Toppy and used an uncluttered desk with good light as my workbench. I left the Toppy unplugged for about five minutes before taking off the cover, to allow any residual charge to disperse.



Cover off

The cover is held on by five screws - one on each side and three on the back. First time in you have to break a seal that invalidates the warranty. No problem on a four year old box.

You can see the power supply on the left, then the hard drive centre-left, then the main circuitry on the right. The top-up TV slots are bottom right, and the aerial sockets top right.



Hard drive fixings

You can see three screws on the facing side of the hard drive in this photo. There are three on the other side as well. A long screwdriver helps get a better angle on these.



Hard drive removed

With the hard drive removed the molex and IDE connectors are clearly seen. Next the hard drive bay comes out to give access to the connections from the power supply.



Power supply leads

At first glance the leads from the power supply to the main circuit board look like they might unplug from the power supply board, but the plugs are actually on the main circuit board.



Power supply leads unplugged

This photo shows the power leads unplugged from the main circuit board. Now the power supply can be removed by unscrewing the board at the mounting points. The screws on the near side of the board are clearly visible.



Power supply removed

The easy bits are all done. The job has only taken ten or fifteen minutes so far. Now for some soldering.



Preparing the work area

With the chassis out of the way just the bits needed are left. The new capacitors are lying next to the power supply board. The copper coloured ribbon is copper braid which MikeyP provided with the capacitors. More on that in a bit.



Soldering

This is the underside of the power supply board. As you can see, there is little to identify what's what. Care is needed to identify the connections for the capacitors to be replaced. It isn't too difficult as you turn the board over to match up the connections, but you certainly don't want to rush it. I used a fibre pen to mark the negative connection for each of the six capacitors.

MikeyP had given me the circuit board identification numbers for the six capacitors to be replaced. However, with some of the centrally positioned capacitors the labelling on the board is slightly ambiguous. Fortunately, on one of the Toppy forums I found a link to a detailed picture with each of the capacitors clearly marked. Polarity of the capacitors is important. The capacitors MikeyP supplied had negative markings on the side with the shorter wire, as did the originals. The circuit board also identifies the polarity with a bold semicircle around the negative connection point.

I can't show you pictures of the soldering itself as it isn't advisable to solder with one hand and take pictures with the other, and my attractive assistant was busy walking the dogs! The copper braid worked very well in removing the existing solder. By placing this on the connection and then the iron on the braid the solder was drawn into the braid as it heated to melting point. Even so, this was the trickiest part of the operation. I very carefully straightened the connectors if they were bent over and eased the capacitors out one by one. On one I had to have a second go at removing the solder before it would come out.

Inserting and soldering the new capacitors was a doddle by comparison. Taking great care to insert the connectors into the circuit board holes the right way round, simply bending the connectors over held the new capacitor in place firmly enough to solder. I held the tip of the iron against the connector at the connection point, and the offered the solder to the connector wire. After a few seconds the solder would run and form a neat ball around the wire. Before each connection I touched the iron in my flux to help prevent oxidation and to help the solder run. Finally, the excess connector wire is snipped off once the solder has cooled.



Time to test - 12v

With the board back in place it was time to test the voltages again. The 12v is still slightly high. Doubtless some gurus on the Toppy forums will tell me why this might be. Still, 12.99v is a lot better than 14.98v.



Time to test - 5v

The 5v connection looks spot-on.



Tools

Not many tools needed. I used the long-nose pliers to gently ease out some capacitors once the solder was removed.



Conclusions

Toppy people are generous with their time and advice. The encouragement I have received has been exceptional. If I can do it I reckon most people can, so if your Toppy starts to play up (out of warranty) don't be afraid to have a go at fixing it yourself.

At the time of writing FreeSat has recently launched. Once there are a few FreeSat HD PVRs available (hopefully including a Topfield version) it may be time to upgrade my PVR, and finally retire my faithful Philips CRT in favour of a shiny new full-HD flat screen. But for the time being my Toppy rolls on!

_________________
Cheers Simon
>8-]

TF5000PVRt 500GB March '09 f/w
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br14nh
Posted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 11:40 am Reply with quote
Regular contributor Joined: 04 Oct 2009 Posts: 32 Location: SW Sydney, Australia
On key addition - measurement of the 5 & 12V should be done at the back of the HDD connector with the HDD connected and operating - this ensures that the voltage is measured in the loaded state, as the unloaded voltage won't give an accurate measure of PSU condition., Usual warnings apply for the presence of HIGH VOLTAGES with the lid off & power energised.
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srichards
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 12:05 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Posts: 8
Hi,

Just found this and it is exactly what I need, my problem though is my Toppy is a 5810PVRt and the PSU looks slightly different.

Does anybody have a guide to replacing the cap's for this model or do you know which caps need replacing?

Thanks
Scott
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chris_s
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 12:46 pm Reply with quote
Frequent contributor Joined: 23 May 2008 Posts: 367 Location: Coventry
srichards wrote:
...... my Toppy is a 5810PVRt and the PSU looks slightly different.
Isn't a bit rash to have opened your 5810 while still under warranty?

_________________
TF5810, F/W: MS6 Recommended F/W 12/9/2009
TAPs: QuickJump 1.72; MPDisplayLITE V1.2; QuickBlank 0.2; SecCache (UK) v0.4; EIT Sub (Game) v0.6; MyInfo B5.6; EPG2MEI v0.96; MyStuff 6.4; Font Manager 1.0d; Extend v1.7; MHEG On/Off A3; (Start Channel LCN);
Sig generated by MyInfo on 14/3/12
,
TV=Panasonic TX-32DT2 IDTV (32" CRT via CVBS-SCART), Tx: Sutton Coldfield. "My other PVR is a TiVo".
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Wallace
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 1:28 pm Reply with quote
Frequent contributor Joined: 22 Mar 2008 Posts: 911 Location: Winter Hill
Thank you for taking the time to post this. Most informative. Although I have a 5810, the basic principles will be the same.

I am still trying to decide whether to invalidate the remaining six months or so of my 2 year warranty to upgrade the HDD. Obviously, it would be remiss not to test the voltages at the same time just in case.

The Toppy is running fine. I do now have the necessary Samsung 1TB HDD and NewLink SATA-PATA adapter required for the upgrade, but I am still not sure whether I should invalidate the warranty !

Decisions, decisions!!

_________________
TF5810, TS On, F/W: MS6 Recommended F/W 12/9/2009 -Xl+UUuVdZ
TAPs: PcControl B1.3; EIT Sub (Game) v0.6; EPG2MEI v0.96; Extend v1.7; Font Manager 1.0d; SecCache (UK) v0.4; MyInfo B5.6; MyStuff 6.5;
Sig generated by MyInfo on 19/7/13
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jpp
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 9:13 pm Reply with quote
Frequent contributor Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Posts: 138 Location: Sydney, Australia
I've never had any issues with Warranty not being honoured if it's clearly not related to what you've done. I would just keep the old original drive handy and put it back in before sending it off should you have to make a claim.

_________________
Cheers,
Phil
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kermit
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 10:46 pm Reply with quote
Frequent contributor Joined: 01 Jun 2005 Posts: 972 Location: Brisbane, Australia
What about the case sticker that breaks when you take the lid off, or don't UK toppies have these?

_________________
Cheers Simon
>8-]

TF5000PVRt 500GB March '09 f/w
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ROWANMOOR
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 10:54 pm Reply with quote
Frequent contributor Joined: 31 Mar 2005 Posts: 739 Location: Redhill, Surrey
kermit wrote:
What about the case sticker that breaks when you take the lid off, or don't UK toppies have these?

They do indeed, though someone claimed to have removed it without breaking it by using a very thin knife. I don't know if that has been repeated by anyone else though.

I wonder what they do when they repair it. Do they put a second sticker on? I will find out when mine eventually returns from Turbosat.

_________________
Cheers,
Rowan.


Toppy: TF5800pvrt Remote: Harmony 885
F/W: MS6 Recommended F/W 12/9/2009 -EpVr+CbCfCtDDsEgEmEvEzFpFsHsIMPePfPsScUUaUuUyVbVcVdWfZ
TAPs: SecCache (UK) v0.4; EIT Sub (Game) v0.6; EPG2MEI v0.96; TAP Commander 1.34; Font Manager 1.0d; Extend v1.7; MHEG Control B2.1; QuickJump 1.72; MyStuff 6.4; TF5000 Display v1.53; MyInfo B5.5;
Sig generated by MyInfo on 8/7/11
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kermit
Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 11:01 pm Reply with quote
Frequent contributor Joined: 01 Jun 2005 Posts: 972 Location: Brisbane, Australia
I guess it is up to how vigilant the distributor is about warranty claims. If they have good systems in place they'd be able to track work done to any machine by serial no.

_________________
Cheers Simon
>8-]

TF5000PVRt 500GB March '09 f/w
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machunter46
Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 8:40 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 14 Mar 2006 Posts: 4 Location: Sydney Australia
The easiest and safest way to test the PSU voltages is to obtain a Y adapter used for adding an additional molex connector powered device when you are out of Molex connectors. Jaycar have such a product. This will leave you with a spare molex connector in parallel with the Molex connector connected to your HDD and you can use this to m easure the voltages
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kermit
Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 12:28 am Reply with quote
Frequent contributor Joined: 01 Jun 2005 Posts: 972 Location: Brisbane, Australia
machunter46 wrote:
The easiest and safest way to test the PSU voltages is to obtain a Y adapter used for adding an additional molex connector powered device when you are out of Molex connectors. Jaycar have such a product. This will leave you with a spare molex connector in parallel with the Molex connector connected to your HDD and you can use this to m easure the voltages

This will only enable testing of the harddrive voltage line and not the others.

_________________
Cheers Simon
>8-]

TF5000PVRt 500GB March '09 f/w
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Chris Flint
Posted: Sat Nov 28, 2009 6:46 pm Reply with quote
Regular contributor Joined: 28 Nov 2009 Posts: 35 Location: Norfolk, UK (Tacolneston TX)
srichards wrote:
Hi,

Just found this and it is exactly what I need, my problem though is my Toppy is a 5810PVRt and the PSU looks slightly different.

Does anybody have a guide to replacing the cap's for this model or do you know which caps need replacing?

Thanks
Scott


Hi.
On the 5810 PSU replace C8, 10, 11, 14 & 15 that should do the trick.

Regards
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br14nh
Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 12:36 pm Reply with quote
Regular contributor Joined: 04 Oct 2009 Posts: 32 Location: SW Sydney, Australia
kermit wrote:
machunter46 wrote:
The easiest and safest way to test the PSU voltages is to obtain a Y adapter used for adding an additional molex connector powered device when you are out of Molex connectors. Jaycar have such a product. This will leave you with a spare molex connector in parallel with the Molex connector connected to your HDD and you can use this to m easure the voltages

This will only enable testing of the harddrive voltage line and not the others.


Yes, but as mentioned by Tony & others, the 5V line is used to control the other PSU voltages - at least 95% of the time, the HDD voltages give as much information as you are likely to need.

Testing the 5V & 12V only simplifies the testing process (can make it a bit safer also) - a low 5V line is a sure sign of a dead/dying PSU, and it really needs to be tested under load to give an accurate measurement.

If the 5V is fine and you still experience problems, then you would need to have a look at the rest of the voltages.

Cheers,
Brian
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Darucla
Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 1:03 pm Reply with quote
Frequent contributor Joined: 06 Jun 2007 Posts: 1423 Location: Norwich
This may be true for most situations. However, the 3.3 volt line, which feeds the microprocessor, can read low whilst the 5 and 12 volt readings are OK. It is probably best practice to check them all while the lid is off.

_________________
TF5800, TS On, F/W: MS6 Recommended F/W 12/9/2009 -CpFm+C0EgIPeUUsUuUyVyWf
TAPs: EIT Sub v0.6; EPG2MEI v0.96; MyInfo B5.5; MHEG Control B2; MyStuff 6.4; Extend v1.7; SecCache (UK) v0.4;
Sig generated by MyInfo on 24/5/11
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chrestomanci
Posted: Wed Dec 30, 2009 3:04 pm Reply with quote
Joined: 04 Nov 2005 Posts: 9 Location: Reading (UK)
Thanks for posting this guide, I used it to fix my toppy.

A few comments

I don't think you need to remove the hard drive from it's mount before you remove the mount, It would probably be easier just to remove the mount with the hard drive still attached.

I found it quite tricky to work out which where the legs of the capacitors I needed to replace from the back of the board. In the end I marked them with red and black marker pens. If I get a chance I will post the photo I took of the marked circuit board to help other people.

When I removed one of the capacitors, I damaged the trace on the circuit board, probably because I was not gentle enough. Luckily I was able to make a bridge to a neighboring solder point.
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